Hi everybody, I would like to change the car radio on my 1998 Jackaroo L8 SE, which is fitted with a power antenna and a Pioneer car radio. Can I just buy any type of new car radio for the power antenna to keep working or does the radio need to have a special power output?

Thank you for your help

Ollie 

Hi all
I'd been given an suspect Injector, purely for studying purposes and maybe to present some of my thoughts, be
they be right or wrong.
This may create some discussions to clarify things for the benefits of Jack owners or the reading public.
I hope you may find some of this information at least an interesting read.

If you are like me, we don't like things breaking down, be it an appliance or your vehicle.
It feels like the mean time between failures (MTBF) of any device is always too short.
There's a good old saying, "They don't make them like they used to".

The 4JX1 injector is no exception to failure, and many of us have experienced this first hand. Maybe too many.
The complex injector is made from a number of components, all working together to perform a function, and that
is to deliver or inject a precise amount of  diesel fuel, consistently year after year, in a hot or cold climate.
That's a serious expectation for this device, and yet we demand it.
As with anything else, the more components there are in a device, the failure rate is almost certain to increase.

The 4JX1 injector basically has a mechanical component, and also an electrical component.
The pictures here are purely for the electrical component only, namely the injector coil.
Not wanting to degrade or belittle its purpose, it is a precision built part, but in the simplest of terms, it is best
described as just an electromagnet which function is to pull the injector of the seat, allowing fuel to flow.

So what appears to be wrong with this coil?
Initial inductance test reads about 6.3 millihenries. nothing wrong with that.
Steve (delewarecop) has done a lot of research on the range of acceptable inductance of injectors, and all his
information can still be found on this forum.
I'm not sure if Steve had mentioned this somewhere, but if you are testing the inductance, it must be done with
the coil mounted on the injector body. If you remove the coil from the injector, you will get a totally different reading.

Having removed the coil from the injector, and having wiped it dry, I found it was continiously weeping oil around the
edges as shown in the pictures.
I connected the coil to a power supply which was current limited to 500mA. This then became a magnet and it comfortably
attracts a piece of metal to it. Had it on for several minutes, reaching a very luke warm temperature. In the pictures
you can see the oil flowing out from in between layers or segments of the coil. I wiped it a few times but it kept coming
out.
When I thought it had run out, I placed it on a piece of towelling with the weight of a D size battery for nearly 48 Hours,
and still oil was drawn out of it as shown on the paper towelling.
And this was after I put a rubber hose into the connector end and applied some compressed air into it. While oil came out of the
underside of the connector, I could not see any come out of the centre area of the coil.
I suspect that the wicking effect we often tak about in this forum, is not the whole reason for the oil going down the wire.
Any crankcase compression can easily aid the pushing of oil down the leaky part of the coil and down the wire.
If the silicon seals on the injector connector is that good, then why is oil always found on the inside when you unplug it?
It would make much more sense for the reason given above.

Many of you have discussed the effects of oil on the Injector loom connector. It makes you wonder whether this oil is
actually in contact with the windings. We wont know without cutting it open, and then we may still not able to determine it.
If it is, could it be a contributor to the coils failure? Does the oil and or its contaminants break down the enamel coating
of the wire? All very interesting questions. Maybe not everyone needs to know why it failed, because there is not much you
can do about it except buy another one.
I'm more inclined to think that it is the high voltage discharge into the coil that eventually fails the windings.
I'd image it works on a similar priciple as the CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition system) of years ago. Made a few of those
years ago.
A DC-DC inverter steps up the cars 12 volt system to about 300 Volts, which charges up a capacitor, then a SCR (Silicon
Controlled Rectifier) triggers the capacitors discharge into the primary winding of the coil. I'm digressing.

I wonder how much the inductance varies as the injector needle and seat wears, in effect increasing the gap between the metal
disk which the coil attracts when triggered? Might try it one day.

Joan

Hello,

A common problem i have experienced over 3 models with this engine whilst in my ownership has been this part that caused erratic running after a while (hesitation in acceleration and lumpy operation at steady throttle). I needlessly spent money replacing the wiring loom and other parts when it was finally traced to this.

Whilst in Thailand I took the liberty of going to an Isuzu dealership and purchasing what was the last part of this type in existence according to dealers database. If so I feel sorry for all other 4JX1 owners as this part will playup/fail in time and the vehicle will be a ###### to drive. I paid 8,150 Thai Baht for it which equated to AUD$271 where at the Holden dealer down here they quoted me $650 for parts that were in stock. Just a rip off for us long suffering Jackeroo owners. I would have purchased all their stock if they had more and sold it on EBay locally at even half the dealer price..

The Part number is 8-97174872-0 Valve : Rail Pressure Sensor as read off the carton the part it comes in. And guess what? It says Made in USA on the carton! Can you believe that? But it has Isuzu Motors Limited Japan genuine part written as well.

Now anyone who may know more about this componant in the mechanical field, this part is a very simple looking piece of gadgetry. What can wrong with it to cause the erratic running where I think it sends the wrong data to the ECU not allowing the correct fuel injection volumes to be sprayed into the motor.

It has this plunger type thing inside where you can push it down with a pen. Can they be dismantled and cleaned out? What can wear inside? Do they get ingested with diesel soot where the parts are prevented from functioning? Can we let it soak in solvent for a week?

I have an old one from a previuos model and the brand new in the box that will need to go into our 2002 as this vehicle has the same symptoms in the last few thousand KM's as the past ones. I feel that this may become a critical issue for owners as due to the absence of this part the entire vehicle may need to be scrapped due to it becoming undrivable.

A great 4WD where all it needed to be continued in the marketplace was a simple engine change to a 4JJ1.

Alex.

24 September, Saturday, will be at  Bathurst Rally, supporting our team as a service crew member with Jackaroo as a service car. Everyone welcome to the spectators points to have a look at rally and to the service point for a cup of tea/coffee and a small talk about Jackaroos

Cheers

Sergey

Hello everybody,

I'm owner of a 1999 V6 3,5 Holden Jackaroo.

i would like to add a roof tent rack on my car. I m interested by this one available on 4wd supa center. 

https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/products/roof-racks/steel/roof-top-tent-rack-universal-steel.html

it is specified that this one is suitable for gutter mount only. 

Is someone know if it is suitable for 1999 jackaroo or not ? Or have experience with ?

 I have kind of gutter on the roof but I'm not sure if it is ok and the shop don't answer to my question. 

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Cheers

Julien 

Hi,

I bought a 2002 diesel Jackaroo 3 months ago from my brother-in-law. It is a brilliant 4WD to drive and stuff like the torsion bar suspension make it way better than expected for a 4WD it's age. No wonder the V6 Jackaroo people love their Jacks :-)

But it has it's little issues where the engine is concerned (stopping at idle, oil pressure dropping) so I decided that the best way to assure myself it would be a reliable concern was to replace/repair everything that is commonly discussed in the 4WD forums. That meant new injector O-rings/gaskets, ORPS, new seals on oil pickup arms, new injector harness etc.

Between Ramin in Dubai and DCA (Diesel Center Australia), I have been able to get almost all the spares I needed at about 1/3 the price the same parts would have been from GMH.

So I got a service manual, Tech 2 clone, a sleeve extraction tool, a bunch of spares and watched lots of youtube videos to see how to service the injectors/injector sleeves, ORPS etc. A 27 mm flute nut spanner made life a lot easier with the high pressure oil pipe, and so far no skinned knuckles.

It's been a steep learning curve, but I've had time to think(worry) about everything I did and I have a few observations and a couple of questions.

There has been a lot of discussion about injector and injector sleeve o-ring failure which leads to lovely stuff like fuel in the engine oil, coolant in the engine/fuel and all the horrific costs associated with having your local dealer fix these issues. The notable thing is that issues are more common when GMH dealers do the service than when Isuzu dealers (almost everywhere but Australia/NZ) service the vehicles. In particular, the copper seal/gasket at the base of the injector should not leak provided everything is absolutely clean when the injectors/sleeves are replaced.

If everything isn't perfectly clean when the injectors/sleeves are replaced/serviced, bad things will follow.

The second area where the 4JX1 has a weakness is on the sensor/electronic side. The big problem with analogue sensors is that if the ECU doesn't get the right information, the engine won't run properly. That makes any wire connections super critical, and engine oil leaking into the ORPS connector, as an example, can make the ORPS look as if it has failed. In my Jack, the injector wiring loom connectors had all leaked.

My brother-in-law had also used a graphite grease on the ECU connectors/plugs (I don't know why) so I have had a great opportunity to find out what the ECU will do when connections aren't perfect.

I'm at the stage of putting the injector sleeves back in, but I've got a question that I hope someone can answer before I get serious.

First a bit of background.

The base of the injector sleeve covers the coolant channels, then there is an o-ring and the next "layer" is the fuel channel in the head. There are 2 O-rings between the sleeve and the head, one separating the coolant and fuel, and one to seal the top of the fuel channel. There are 2 holes in the sleeve which provide fuel to the injector and the sleeve, which in operation is full of fuel. The injector has a copper alloy seal/gasket between it and the bottom of the sleeve, and an o-ring at the top of the sleeve to keep fuel from mixing with oil.

If the copper gasket leaks, the combustion chamber pressure can rupture the injector o-ring so fuel mixes with engine oil.

BUT the thing that has me stumped is there is NO gasket/seal at the bottom of the sleeve, it just plugs into the top of the head, so the only thing separating the coolant from the combustion chamber is the sleeve (stainless steel) pushed against the head (aluminium). If things aren't mated perfectly, then this could result in combustion chamber gases blowing past the bottom of the sleeve and creating a bubble in the coolant around the sleeve which would mean the sleeve and injector would get hotter. It would also lead to blowing out the bottom sleeve  o-ring (coolant in diesel/diesel in coolant) and the top sleeve o-ring (everything mixed, a mess).

So we have two really important sealing points, the copper gasket sealing the injector space, and the non-existent gasket sealing the bottom of the sleeve. What idiot would have designed this without having a copper gasket for the bottom of the sleeve?

So that's my problem. I should just drop the sleeve back in with 2 new O-rings, but this just seems so wrong...

I hope this made sense. In any event, I'd really appreciate some expert advice as to the desirability of having a gasket for the sleeve.

regards,

Rick

Hi guys, my 2000 Jack has a bit of slop in the steering box. Does anyone know if this can be adjusted out or does it needs a rebuild?

If it does need a rebuild has anyone done one and do you know where the parts can be sourced from?

Thanks in advance.

Shane 

Hey there, the other nigt on my way to work the car had a hot eposode for about a minute . then cooled back to half way on the gauge, no warning lights & no stalling.

Checked the water in radiator, none in there, checked oil. full of water, confirmed It has a cracked head, but no mechanic can really comment on how to reapair it.

Some say they cant be reconditioned and have to have Genuine Holden Head replacement at over $3000 for the part alone. does anyone know if this is true. The car gave no warnings to this is regularly serviced, has 159000kls on clock always drives at halfway on temp guage, check engine light never comes on. although oil pressure gauge fluctuates a lot some times, but like many was told not to wory about this as these gauges are often falty?? and $$$ to fix.

Any decent Mechanics on Brisbane southside who people have had experience with for a simmilar problem?? oxygenta.

my brother just picked up a second hand sub/aux tank. was hoping someone could point me to a wiring diagram? I already have a couple of ideas to wire it up as either a second independent tank or to pump into the main tank but was hoping someone might have the wiring instructions that come with them when purchased new for how the manufactures suggest wiring them up.

thanks.

Hi everyone,

I have a 98 auto jackaroo that we seem to have had "gremlin" problems with since buying it in March. The latest one is that the car is surging and bunny hopping but only when warm. When you start the car first thing in the morning and drive it, it is perfectly fine. Once you turn it off and then start it again after about half and hour, the idle is irratic and it surges especially when accelerating. If you turn it off and leave it for a few hours and then start it agian, it's fine. It only seems to be doing it when hot.

My husband has replaced the air idle valve thingy and has cleaned out the EGR and MAF sensor and it has made no difference to the problem. We are guessing it's a sensor or electrical thing but can't work out why it's only doing it when the car is hot?

Any ideas or suggestions would be fantastic, thanks heaps

G'day all,

I've got the high pressure oil pipe for the injectors leaking at the lower union.

I had a good look with a mirror and it looks like the bracket for the two way check valve has been cut by a previous owner, making the engine vibrations crack the pipe.

Does anyone out there have these parts (2 and 4 in the pic below) and are willing to sell them?

Cheers!

Has anyone had this issue with theyre 4JX1 engine ,,, starts fines when cold and will run and drive fine but if turned off and then try to restart it just cranks till batteries go flat, had it on a scan tool with live data and as far as i can tell everything/ sensors etc  seem to be fine.Tried   manually pumping fuel primer, it had an issue with the injector loom last time so that got changed(2nd hand loom and 4 injectors) there are no codes in ECU. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated 

Thanks

p.s Thanks to anyone who has helped with any of my previous posts :-)

Hey All,

I need to replace the exhaust bash plate on my 3.5 petrol the one that protects the pipe on the drivers side. I previously welded to plates together but this plate has had its day. I want to upgrade this so a custom made one is what I'm after.

Has anyone had one made or developed a better design?or knows of a reliable fabrication place that can do this, preferably in Sydney.

Thanks

WJ

Hey Jackaroo guys n gals,

Found this on ebay when scrolling around. Anyone thinking of a rear locker should grab this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARB-Air-locker-for-Holden-Jackaroo-/322320094238?hash=item4b0bc6541e:g:WWUAAOSw2GlXIZrW

Scroll through their other items, as they are selling quite a bit of odds and ends.

Grant

Is this compatible with a jackaroo engine?

My diesel widetrack seems to have developed a really bad sounding creaking/groaning noise when turning left. It's also apparent when going over a pothole/dip in the road while going straight.
Seems to be coming from the rear passenger side.

Doesn't seem to make the noise going straight and turning right, and is way more apparently at low speeds, and gets worse the hotter it is.

Have had a really good look and play with everything back there and everything seems tight, relatively new shocks/springs. Have also changed diff oil.

Could it be something like bearings causing this, it does sound like a "big" noise which is why it's concerning...

Hi

Spilled coffee in my 3.5 1999 Monterey Auto

About 2 years ago I thought I was doing the right thing and bought a coffee in a bio degradable cup

Only thing is that it degraded before I got to drink it. All over my console.

Little did I know, the coffee found its way into my ECM.

So now I need another one

Does anyone know what is involved in changing the ecm as far as reprogramming?

Hi everyone,

Just wondering if anyone can give me a helping hand in working out the "Category Number (Grade Code)" of the injectors

for the 4JX1 engines......I have the workshop manual, scan tool and numbers of each injectors currently installed.

The workshop manual says that the grade code are indicated on the upper portion of the injector but all I have on the

upper portion of each injector is a bunch of numbers with no letters (please see the attached photo)......According to the

workshop manual it should be one alphabet letter & one numeral number (Please also see attached file)

I have recently replaced all 4 injectors in my 2000 Jackaroo and in the process of programming each injector with a scan tool

when I got stuck because it is asking me to input a grade code for each injectors for each cylinders (whether it's and A1, A2, A3 and so on)

Looking at the Legend of the diagram on the workshop manual (file attached)......location #2 should be the category number (grade code)

These are the numbers I have on each injectors currently installed:

(location #2 on the diagram of the workshop manual)

Cylinder number 1. 47

Cylinder number 2. 51

Cylinder number 3. 53

Cylinder number 4. 47

Hi Everyone. I've got a 2003 3.5l Jack which has developed an "alarming" problem. (sorry, couldn't help it!). Just got the car back from a major rebuild, and now the alarm keeps going off within a couple of minutes of locking it. A couple of times when I've unlocked it again it has given three small toots with the horn. I know this is to tell me which sensor has been interfered with, but I cannot find anyone to tell me which sensor it means. All my local holden dealers say that it's too old for them to know! My Jack is 2003 for crying out loud, not 1953! I suspect it's the bonnet sensor because of the recent work, but I want to be sure before I start playing around with it. Can anyone help? Failing that, where is the fuse for the alarm?

Hi all, I need to get my hands on a wiring diagram, as the previous owner, has added so many extra wires, all the same colour, and extra relay switches and an extra fuse block, which mind you, has no fuses in it, but, yeah.... they have run the extra wires through to the inside under the dash, and disconnected three switches, that are on the console, um, added a led strip in the rear interior, which is ok, but, another bodgy job, um, yeah, and a few more mods, but I am pretty sure, that when I take it in for the roadworthy, the bodgy jobs wont pass... help please !!!!!!!!

BTW it's a V6 1997 Jackaroo SE Petrol engine, if there is any difference.