G'day all, here's hoping that someone can help me as I have a problem with my jackaroo it starts and runs fine but it doesn't have any power like it used to through the gears or while driving along, when I eventually get up to speed barring any hills there is just no power when I put my foot down, it's like it's in limp mode or something.
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4JX1 loss of power
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4JX1 Oil
G'day all, is Penrite HPR 5 full synthetic 5w - 40 a good oil to use in my Jackaroo?
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Mechanic Needed to Replace Head
Hi Guys
Im pretty sure that due to my Jackaroo 4JX1 blowing a couple of water hoses and the engine over heating i have cracked the head. The engine still runs and is driveable for a short while but creates heaps of pressure in the radiator causing the fluid to leak out and over heat if not careful.
I need to find a good mechanic in Brisbane southside prefered that can tell me if this is so and if so how much to get a new head and replace. It must be someone that actually knows these engines as i have had bad luck with guys that dont relise how these engines work.
I have a very strict but i believe realistic budget in mind.
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Mechanic Needed to Replace Head
Hi Guys
Im pretty sure that due to my Jackaroo 4JX1 blowing a couple of water hoses and the engine over heating i have cracked the head. The engine still runs and is driveable for a short while but creates heaps of pressure in the radiator causing the fluid to leak out and over heat if not careful.
I need to find a good mechanic in Brisbane southside prefered that can tell me if this is so and if so how much to get a new head and replace. It must be someone that actually knows these engines as i have had bad luck with guys that dont relise how these engines work.
I have a very strict but i believe realistic budget in mind.
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Blinker stalk + wiring required
Hi to all,
I'm looking for a replacement blinker stalk and associated wiring to replace my current one which has broken wires connecting the headlights (only a problem at night ???)
I'm just after a standard item, no cruise control. To suit Jackaroo. I think all later models should be simmilar.
If someone, preferably in Adelaide, has one please let me know, as I will need to get it replaced before the dark, cold & wet months set in.
Thanks for your assistance.
Regards, Russell ......................
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Oil Rail Pressure Sensor Valve Rebuilding for 4JX1 engine.
Hello,
A common problem i have experienced over 3 models with this engine whilst in my ownership has been this part that caused erratic running after a while (hesitation in acceleration and lumpy operation at steady throttle). I needlessly spent money replacing the wiring loom and other parts when it was finally traced to this.
Whilst in Thailand I took the liberty of going to an Isuzu dealership and purchasing what was the last part of this type in existence according to dealers database. If so I feel sorry for all other 4JX1 owners as this part will playup/fail in time and the vehicle will be a ###### to drive. I paid 8,150 Thai Baht for it which equated to AUD$271 where at the Holden dealer down here they quoted me $650 for parts that were in stock. Just a rip off for us long suffering Jackeroo owners. I would have purchased all their stock if they had more and sold it on EBay locally at even half the dealer price..
The Part number is 8-97174872-0 Valve : Rail Pressure Sensor as read off the carton the part it comes in. And guess what? It says Made in USA on the carton! Can you believe that? But it has Isuzu Motors Limited Japan genuine part written as well.
Now anyone who may know more about this componant in the mechanical field, this part is a very simple looking piece of gadgetry. What can wrong with it to cause the erratic running where I think it sends the wrong data to the ECU not allowing the correct fuel injection volumes to be sprayed into the motor.
It has this plunger type thing inside where you can push it down with a pen. Can they be dismantled and cleaned out? What can wear inside? Do they get ingested with diesel soot where the parts are prevented from functioning? Can we let it soak in solvent for a week?
I have an old one from a previuos model and the brand new in the box that will need to go into our 2002 as this vehicle has the same symptoms in the last few thousand KM's as the past ones. I feel that this may become a critical issue for owners as due to the absence of this part the entire vehicle may need to be scrapped due to it becoming undrivable.
A great 4WD where all it needed to be continued in the marketplace was a simple engine change to a 4JJ1.
Alex.
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Coolant
G'day all, just after some feedback on what's the best coolant to use in my Jackaroo 4jx1, can I use any or should it be one specifically for a diesel ,cheers!
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94 V6 Jack coolant leak
I pulled up at the tip today and car suddenly decides to overheat. I nursed it home thinking I'd blown a radiator hose. No such luck it's leaking at the back of the engine, Thinking it was a heater hose I started to investigate which one. Nope! Pulled the inlet manifold off and it seems to be leaking from a bolt at the back of the LH bank. Photo attached. A few questions spring to mind though
What is it likely to be?
Will I have to pull the engine to get at it?
The circled area shows water bubbling out from the area. (The hose is just dribbling into the radiator at this point)
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2004 rodeo alloytech
Hi all
I have a 2wd 2004 rodeo that has a dead 3.5l motor I am looking at swapping it for an alloytech and gearbox from a commodore. anyone know if any of the wiring would match ( change out ecu for alloytech ecu or flash 3.5 engine ecu) or will I need the full wiring from the commodore
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Jackaroo coolant
G'day all, just after some feedback on what's the best coolant to use in my Jackaroo 4jx1 and can I use fuel line as a coolant line from the thermostat, thanks!
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White smoke after head replacement
Hi there
my friend went through deep water, after that problems started;
replaced 4 injectors with used ones, then brand new cylinder head.
Now there is still check engine light and tech2 says unknown problem code 0338, correct RPM identified. replaced the crank sensor, no change, check light still on.
When engine is cold, there is a lot of white smoke and engine working rough, when warm - no smoke and engine smooth and strong..
Any help regarding this will be appriciated.
Elad.
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Jackaroo Journey to RWC
Hi all. Long time lurker, first time poster... ;-)
Just thought it would be nice if I recorded my own personal journey on trying to get my 2002 Jackaroo back into a RWC condition as maybe it might help others. I'm fixing the car up not necessarily so we can sell it, but more so I know that it is both safe to use as well as continues to be a great reliable ride.
1. Only had one remote control, and it appeared to be dead. I put new batteries in the remote and could see the red light on the dash flickering when I pressed the button so knew it was receiving info - just that for some reason the car had lost the program. Reprogramming the car unit and key requires a combination of turning the ignition on and off and opening the door. There are mixed descriptions on how to do it (more to acc or move all the way to ignition), and flicking the door switch on and off. Some say that the door locks will cycle, others that they don't. Whatever the case, I tried every variation multiple times and simply could not get it to work. Now the remote might have been faulty, and you can get refurbished units via eBay from the US, but they aren't cheap and I could not confirm if the receiver in the car was ok. Solved the whole thing by having an after market remote control installed. Cost $180, but for that I got two remotes that are way smaller than the originals and frankly feel better. So yay, remote locking. Could probably have installed it myself and saved some money there, but I thought it best to leave it to the professionals....
2. The stock cd/radio was from way before the turn of the century, and some of the buttons wouldn't work which meant you couldn't set the clock so that was always wrong. Got an $80 unit from supercheap - installed it myself. Was dead easy, and now the car can stream music from my mobile, or a usb key, and I can even make handsfree calls. It even sets the clock via the FM signal, and came with a stupid little remote. Sweet.
3. The 'check engine' light was on. Connected my handy OBD2 reader up to the car and found that the code meant the EGR valve needed checking. Some more hunting and found this was not unusual - and can be resolved by removing the unit, spending some time cleaning it, and putting it back on. I got a new EGR off eBay for under $70 delivered. Removed the old unit, cleaned the mount and installed the new unit - check engine light gone. The original I've set aside so I can clean it sometime and have it as a spare. I'd note that you can also put a blank panel over it instead but hey - $70 and about 5 minutes effort to fix it properly seemed like a bargain.
4. ABS light is on - no error message showing on my ODB2 reader. I had seen some comments suggesting that the issue could be a faulty control unit or warped discs or any number of things including dirt on sensors. Found however this (http://lasanguine.com/RodeoTechnical/ABSDTC.pdf) where basically just need to jumper 4 & 12 on the ODB2 socket with some wire, turn on the ignition and count the error codes. In my case they were 44, 43, and 35. I then cleared the error codes to see what happened, and after that was left with the error code '35'. This is "C0265" or "Open relay circuit" - I am now going to hunt around to see if I can see any loose connections, but suspect I may need to arrange to have the ABS unit refurbished as per the thread here:
5. My last major issue - the indicator/light switch on the steering wheel is faulty. A brand new part is apparently $800, so am now going to spend some time seeing if there is a suitable second hand part from a wrecker available. The issue is of course that it is quite possible that the second hand part may also be faulty, or at least will fail eventually as well as it's apparently not uncommon. Ah well... if anyone has a good spare, I'm open to offers.... ;-)
So that's my journey. As it is now, the car is safe as long as I don't use it at night (the brakes are fine, just the headlights can go off when I indicate). I'll update when those remaining issues (ABS light, and signal switch) are fixed!
Cheers
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Non starting Jack.
Morning All.
I really need help? I have a 2000 diesel jackaroo that I have been working on for the last 18 months.
I replaced the head gasket, injectors, seals etc etc. I finally put it all back together and started it. It started and ran well. The next day i decided to install a Cav filter that l had. It was placed before the original filter. The Jackaroo started and ran for a few minutes, then became a little rough before cutting out, I assume an air lock from the cav filter was the cause. I removed the cav filter and put it back the way it was. Primed the pump and tried starting. It only turns over with no signs of starting, Ive tried four times each time placing the battery on the charger to boost it up. Can you get an air lock in the fuel system, will continual cranking clear it? It started so well after sitting for so long but now it wont even kick.
Has anyone used a cav filter of approx 5micron. I have read that they are no good for common rail injection, you need a filter with higher flow and about 11 micron?
Thanks.
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4JX1 Messy Oil Changes + Template
For those doing their own oil changes, the 4JX1 gives you 2 great opportunities to make quite a mess.
Even if you leave the motor resting overnight, and allow the oil to drain to the sump, there is no escaping of oil dripping everywhere
when the oil filters are removed.
As the main filter is removed, oil spills over the front differential and along the filter, and unless cleaned up somehow, will leave
oil on the driveway or wherever it is parked.
The smaller filter too likes to dribble oil everywhere. there is not a lot you can do to avoid this. The filter is mounted upside down,
and gravity happily assists in spilling whatever oil is in the filter on removal.Unfortunately I have not thought of a solution for this one.
Here is a description of a gadget that somewhat will assist you in minimising this mess when changing the main oil filter.
Simply cut and shape a short piece of 90mm stormwater pipe to something that ressembles the attached picture.
The idea is to use your oil filter removal tool first to losen the filter. Do this until you can turn the filter by hand to a point just
before the seal breaks away and starts to spill oil. Squeeze the funnel (for a better word), past the torsion bar and over the filter
as far as it will go. Place a catch tray below the funnel. You can now losen the filter until the oil starts to run out. Wait a little bit until the oil flow is greatly reduced, then with a bit of a fiddling manouvre, keep turning the filter (funnel still in place) until you can remove the filter. Expect some more oil to flow as the filter is removed.
With a bit of practice, maybe only a few drops will be spilled, a vast improvement.
The gadget stayed in place (by friction) and can be left there unattended while oil is draining.
Hint. If you have access to a grinder with a steel brush, simply outline with a texta what you want removed from the PVC pipe, then just buff it into shape. Failing that, use a drill and rotary burring file.
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Bump stops
G'day all, does anyone know how the front bump stops are attached to a 98 Jackaroo?
One of mine is missing and I want to grab one from the wreckers, just need to know how to remove it.
Thanks in advance!
BC.
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Oil filters
G'day all, when I do an oil change I've been changing both filters can someone tell me if that's necessary or should only one be done and the other every second service and is the primary filter the small one and the secondary filter the bigger one, thanks cheers Hunce
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4jx1 oil
G'day all, I've been using penrite 5-40 full synthetic, just wondering if castrol edge 5-30 or Nulon 5-30 full synthetic would be better, cheers! 🍻
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2004 jackaroo no start
I have a 2004 Jackaroo and had a faulty fuel pump primer replaced that but have now got glowplug light on even with ignition turned off and when I go to start ,light goes out. the only way to reset is take out glowplug fuse
motor turns over but will not start
can anyone help please
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No drive from front wheels
G'day all, I took my base model 98 manual Jack to a 4x4 park yesterday and encountered two problems which I will cover in separate posts. This is the first time I have taken this Jack off road and I stared off in H4 with manual hubs locked. Taking it easy over the first few obstacles with no problems then got caught up on a rise on a RH corner and thought it a bit strange, reversed up and powered over it. Just put it down to a different vehicle and continued on using power to get over obstacles and when ever it started slipping. Moved on to sandy tracks and all seemed fine though on occasions I felt it was bogging down in rear so just gave it a bit more power and all good. Came up to one of the main obstacles on the track and watched 2 Tritons' get stuck, I'd cruised through this one several times on previous visits so dove in and got stuck! It was pointed out that my front wheels were not turning, very strange! Leaver had gone from 4H to 2H, and I though that it had jumped out of 4H so put it in 4L to try and un-wedge Jack to no avail, snatched out and continued on just thinking that It had jumped out of 4H. Came to a steep rutted out long climb and followed a Range Rover and Territory over the crest, 1st gear 4L. Part way down had to apply brakes as we were going too fast and sent Jack side ways, almost rolling over only prevented by using no brakes and steering out of side ways slide! Scared the heck out of me and the guy who was in front already at the base watching. Couldn't work all this out, surely the broken sway bar link(see other post) wouldn't cause this! After lunch hit the tracks again only to find back end bogging down in sand when we would stop, so we pulled up and stuck our heads out of the windows and gave it a boot full only to see that the front wheels were not moving at all and the transfer leaver was still in 4H. Tried again in 4L, same result, disengaged and re-engaged hubs, still no change, also observed drive shafts turning.
So we were amazed at what we had done all day with only rear drive where some other 4x4 were getting stuck, this also explains the slide down the hill as there was not enough weight over back wheels to grip and the front were just free wheeling and locked with the slightest tap of the brakes sending the front side ways across the hill following the ruts and nearly causing the roll over.(I have rolled a Jack so know the tipping point!)
Now to the discoveries today, RH hub locks in and out ok, but RH side is open wheel so no direct drive. Pulled off LH hub to find it was open in any position, the follower in the clutch assembly was bent and was put in wrong and would not allow the clutch to slide onto the end of the shaft. I straightened the follower out so it would slide into the hub and ensured that when fitted the folded tabs went into the wider slots in hub. I also found the larger tabs(called nails in workshop manual) were slightly bent out also allowing the clutch to come away from cap. Now with both hubs locking, RH wheel in air and it in 4H, it locks up the axle when turning RH wheel, problem solved.
Sorry about the long rant, but it gives an over view of what symptoms I had, what led to the discovery and what can happen when something doesn't work fortunately with no injuries.
BC.
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Broken rear swaybar link
G'day all, I took my base model 98 manual Jack to a 4x4 park yesterday and encountered two problems which I will cover in separate posts. This is the first time I have taken this Jack off road and I soon ended up with a broken RH rear sway bar link. It had folded in half on compression then snapped in the middle on extension. The previous owner had exactly the same thing happen, same side even. I was concerned about the alignment of the link or it getting caught up on something at full rear flex, but I can't see anything to get caught on and alignment is good.
Has anyone else had this problem, if so is there a fix or something to check for?
Does any one make HD links?
I just unbolted the top half of the link to prevent the constant banging and possibly going through the tire and carried on with no problems even when back on the road at end of the day.
BC.
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