Hi All, 

My aircon is noisy and through reading this forum I have determined it is the aircon clutch bearing. I have a new bearing and for the last 2 days have been trying to remove the clutch plate (which I have probably stuffed by this point :-( )

Things I have tried so far

• Leveraging top and bottom while tapping a longer ten mm bolt inserted into the central shaft. 
• Using 3 machine grade  M5 bolts and screwing them into the 3 threaded holes tightening each in turn  (ended up wrecking the thread in each hole) 
• tapping the plate edge wise to try to free it. 
• Lots of WD40

I have checked and unlike some other model aircons there is no circlip holding the plate on and there is no over sized thread to allow a larger bot to push the clutch off.

One thought I had was to heat the plate or the shaft up.  it would be easier to heat up the shaft as I could just screw in a bolt and heat the bolt either with a torch or weld on the end of it while inserted.  However I'm guessing this would make it tighter rather than loser but it may break the bond?   

Any more ideas?  

Hi guys, I'd have preferred not to have to write this, but... you know

Situation:

Jackaroo drives, but only in low rpm's up to 1500 or so (aka 20-30km/h max), everything higher it feels like a slipping clutch (which I know it doesn't have, but that's how it feels, it just turns rpm up with no power distributed anymore, which, however, is done in low rpm regions).

Starting at probably around 1500 rpm it makes a totally "not nice sounding" squeaky noise - I attached an audio only file (about 12sec) and one with video to show the area it comes from (a lot shorter, but with visuals ) - you can hear it clearly in the car and under the car in the auto-transm. area, but not, if standing in front of the Jackaroo with bonnet open, so it's most likely not the motor (at least a bit of luck?), just what is it?

I'm only a hobby mechanic and it just sounds "not nice at all", any help would be appreciated. We got a baby and need it to drive, don't want to wreck it completely by driving anymore right now.

Thanks in advance, wish there were relatively cheap mechanics at the Gold Coast, you know any? Or is somebody of you familiar with the 2000 3.5L Petrol 6VE1 w. 4L30E Auto Jackaroo and lives around here?

I guess a repeat: help! on that one.. maybe only auto trans fluid low?..

Thanks a lot, fingers crossed you guys can at least give some hints / maybe even know a local around here (upper Gold Coast near Movie World)

David

jackaroo--short-video.mp4

jackaroo--audio-only-longer.mp3

Hi All,

My brother in-laws 1998 Jackaroo Monterey is stuck in first gear, it is an automatic. The mechanic said the transmission is stuffed but didn't provide a clear answer.

Can someone please help me with some ideas?

Thanks

I have a broken jackaroo 2000 engine RJQ? and wondering if we can replace it with a engine RLU from a 1997 Jackaroo? 

Hi Guy's, not sure if I should post this here but I tried multiple times in the Holden and Isuzu classified but everytime I try to open the page it's a deadlink and I get the " Sorry, there is a problem The page you requested does not exist Error code: 1S160/2 ".

Anyway I have 3x Rola roof bars for sale, they are practically brand new and have only been on the roof for nearly 3 months and have never had anything on them. They are the Rola heavy duty tailored fit ( extended ) which mount into the Jackaroo's OEM mounting points in the roof. CRM 025-3, RRP over $600 selling for $250 as I have ordered a full roof rack from trademan roofracks Melbourne. I am in Carolinesprings in the Western suburbs if anyone is interested. I have not listed them on ebay as I thought I'd try the forum first.

Thanks guys and girls

Hi all

Ive been addressing what I think is a glow plug (GP) issue in my 1998 Jackaroo.

The symptom
Longer cranking time before starting, along with some smoke for up to 10 seconds, then its clear and never
produces the same symptom for the rest of the day.
It never smoked before at startup during the warmer months, only since the colder months. Could be coincidental.

This post is not intended to discuss the many different reasons why I have difficulty starting the 4JX1,
but rather to explore the Glow Plug only side of things.

Findings
While some of these findings may not necessarily fix the issue (only time will tell with these cold morning starts),
I like to highlight some of the things I found along the way.
a. Rusty current bar for GP's.
b. Newly purchased VS? brand GP's have a much lower resistance (measured 0.4 Ohm) than specification. Refer picture.
c. No afterglow resistor found.
d. Used GP's have a bulging look about them along the tip.

Assumptions
1. I always assumed that GP's go open circuit when they fail. While I only have 2 used GP sets to draw statistics
from, it does show that this may not the case for all, if at all. Instead the resistor which specification tolerance
is 0.8 to 1.0 Ohms, is shown to increase in resistance (R).
As R increases, there is less current draw and less heat produced by the GP.

2. While the 1998 Service manual shows that there is a high power resistor for a 7.0 Volt afterglow, this was not found,
and the GP relay just shuts off, leaving 0 Volt. There is no evidence found of extra wiring to cater for this feature.
Maybe it's not relevant to the Ausie version.

Modifications
1. New GP wiring loom - I deemed this necessary for a few of reasons. The common bar between injectors
was quite rusty and the nuts were loose on each GP. This will certainly cause a voltage drop with high currents.
The main GP wire insulation (connected to the 4th GP) has hardened quite a bit, the connector is quite small, 
and is difficult to connect.
With the new GP's, a current draw of 60 Amps was measured. Even with the old GP's of which only 2 were in spec
the current draw was measured at >30 Amps. The new loom will address some of these voltage loss issues.
2. It also allows for a future GP Fail indicator, where individual GP current is monitored, and the ability to individually
diagnose each GP's without having to pull covers off. (The loom is made up of 4 individual wires, connected together
near the grey GP plug on the firewall).
3. While not entirely possible, having a foreign object shorting out the exposed current bar is not nice. The new loom
greatly reduces this risk.
4. The hole right at the back of the plastic cover had the loom hole enlarged to cater for the larger GP loom.

Tools
Apart from a 8mm socket or spanner, you need an extra support tool to protect the GP when connecting the bar nut or new loom.
Making this tool to tighten a GP nut is a must. A 2mm metal strip needs to have the correct slot filed into the end of
it to suit your GP.
You then have to bend the end of it nearly 90 degrees to gain access to the nut behind the bar connection.
I learned that not all GP's are the same. Some have a nut, while others have a crimp. In order to properly
tension the electrical connector, one must support (hold) the nut, or hold the crimp from behind the connector with
this tool, while tightening the nut on top. Proper torque can't be achieved with out this tool.
If this is not done, you risk twisting off the threaded rod which at the end of it has the GP resistor wire welded to it.
Refer picture.

I like to hear your experience which GP brand has served you well (life expectancy?), and maybe those that haven't.

What price can one expect to pay for a top brand GP?
I only paid $44, not having done any research. Sounds rather cheap, so I'll monitor the life expectancy closely.

Do the later models have an afterglow resistor?
Pictures as usual, and of a dissected Glow plug.

Joan

Hi All,

Just thought I'd also post this in the Jackaroo specific section, just in case. I hope people don't mind...

Location: Yangebup, Perth, WA

Basically, other than the blown engine, this jacky was in pretty reasonable condition, if I say so myself. The body is straight other than some small dimples around the passenger-side rear column light. Some scratches on the sides and the clear coat is pretty much all gone from the roof and bonnet. Mechanically, everything else is pretty good. Smooth shifting transmission, never done anything offroad that is particularly rough.

Things that might be of particular interest to people:

• DIY steel full length roofrack/cage. Nice and sturdy
• Alloy roo bar
• rear OME shocks and 100kg springs (only a year or 2 old)

Let me know what you're interested in and I can give you more details/photos/price.

Cheers

Hi all, I need to get my hands on a wiring diagram, as the previous owner, has added so many extra wires, all the same colour, and extra relay switches and an extra fuse block, which mind you, has no fuses in it, but, yeah.... they have run the extra wires through to the inside under the dash, and disconnected three switches, that are on the console, um, added a led strip in the rear interior, which is ok, but, another bodgy job, um, yeah, and a few more mods, but I am pretty sure, that when I take it in for the roadworthy, the bodgy jobs wont pass... help please !!!!!!!!

BTW it's a V6 1997 Jackaroo SE Petrol engine, if there is any difference.

How does one adjust the clutch on a 97 Jackaroo

Hi all 

what does everyone use to clean the egr valve with. I've been searching like mad and can find plenty of comments about cleaning the EGR but no mention what was used. Do people use carby cleaner or some other spray or soak it in a bit of fuel. Curious to know, took mine off my 4jx1 the other day for a look and as expected it's pretty dirty and thought it could do with a good clean.

thanks

Cam

Hey guys, Im New here haha.

So i picked up a 2001 TD Jackaroo recently for next to nothing, its got a bull bar an apparent 2" lift and a set of muddies so I'm pretty happy, its got a brand spanking new turbo and apparently the top end has been recently.

but there is issues.

-4wd light flashes when 4wd not engaged. haven't taken it off road yet to check if its disengaging or even engaging at all, guy said it had something to do with the CV's due to a click on lock but I think its something electrical, Ive had a read around and most people have had similar, not same, issues were they just cleaned the wiring, CV's probably need replacing anyway.

- Rear Right axle seal... thought it was a brake leak took it out but its coming from the axle..

- Engine Mounts....this engine wobbles crazy. Never done engine mounts. So advice + retailers who sell the bits i need would be great info

- Engine oil leaks.........Front passenger side of engine somewhere beside what looks like the a/c compressor im not too sure. is my main issue. The engines are super cramped hard to see were it starts. gonna have to start pulling it apart.

- Shockies are shot. Need a new set, Any recommendations?

If you have delt with any of these issues in the past or dealing with them now, Any pointers or tips would be great. 

Looking forward to get into the community and learn abit about my new truck

Btw Im from Newcastle..

After a few struggles and slight modifications, I am now proud of my hybrid roof racks.

The roof rails are from tradesman roof racks ($350) here in Melbourne, and the the basket from 4x4 Auto parts in Campbelfield ( $270.00 )

$620 total plus the $43 for the 16 high strength M8 bolts, fiber washers to keep water out of the drill holes, and the locking nuts was still way cheaper than purchasing a complete unit ( no one makes anything for the Jack so it's up to us to tinker and make things our self ).

Slowly but surely I will build my mate up, next will be a new front bar from MCC complete with winch mount, I've found an engineering company that makes steel rear bars and rear wheel carriers that have a jig for the Jackaroo, and then a roof top tent ( not necessarily in that order though )

I've also got a little side project that I'm working on and I'd like to find out what people think. I'm looking at replacing the original intercooler with a top mount STi variant, not really sure if I would even tinker with raising boost just the original intercooler looks a bit knackered and I was wondering if there would be any cooling (intake) advantage if I got the subi bonnet scoop and modified the one on the Jack for a bigger opening.

Thanks guys

G'day fellow Jackaroo owners.

Firstly I'd like to apologize for posting my gloating about the new roof racks I made fit the Jack with 2 different parts ( landcruiser rack and rails from tradesman roof systems). It wasn't till after I posted it that I realized I'd posted it here and not the general chat section... Ooooops.

But on a serious note I have a question in relation to the way my engines playing up/behaving.

I just went and put fuel into it and the trip meter tells me I'd only managed 473 K's for the week ( normally I get 530-550 city driving and 600-630 highway ) well that's what I used to get...

My problem apart from the diminishing fuel economy is that, whether the engine is at operating temp or cold, it seems like turbo lag. It hangs and hangs and then all of a sudden it's like it hit boost and off it goes till the next gear. At a constant speed on the freeway ( 80-110 ) you notice it but it's still there just not as bad. I've also noticed that when she is lagging like that that there is some black smoke. A couple of week ago I ended up taking the air filter out which seemed to have made it a bit better and no I don't drive her whilst it's raining so its not water. I'm just buggered as to what it may be. Holden will do the process of elimination which will end up costing a fortune. Oh, I have also put a connector on the white wire, would it make any difference if I disconnect it and see if I have the same issues...

I have no mechanical aptitude, really, as a kid I made mechano kits work backwards...

Appreciate any and all feed back guys and girls..

Thanks

Jack

Here's an easy way to treble the storage bin space under your back passenger seat, this is a nice storage space but limited on how much it can hold , I recently had to remove this bin to get access to some bolts for my auxiliary tank, when I remove the bin I was amazed on the amount of hidden wasted space there was.  I normally carry some spares in this bit,  here are some photos of before and after, the two boxes in photo 1 is what I normally can get in the bin, now I can carry the same two boxes of spares and a lot more other things can be tucked away

remove the 10 screw and 4 carpet retainers on the lid to remove the storage bin, then just cut off the plastic bin just under the lid. and refit, job done.

Hi All, had the drivers window glass break another clip recently so went out chasing some more, the short story is I ended up back at Powerwin again(http://www.powerwin.com.au/ )

They have a new clip with a lot more material around to it to grip the glass and to increase strength to prevent flex and breakage, when the window is forced fully home and the track flexes.

Hi guys,

I have a 2000 model petrol Jackaroo. Check engine light is currently on, and I would like to clear it. I have read on some other forums and looked on YouTube that I just need to remove the ECM fuse to reset. Is this correct? On another forum it says I also need to disconnect the battery? Also just checking - I will find the ECM fuse in the fuse box under the bonnet?

Thanks in advance for your help! :-) 

I have an Isuzu Wizard fitted with a 4jx1 engine and it would not start.

Bought a tech2  and I can't seem to get to fully understand it use

Can anyone give me guidance?

G'day all! The classified section of site isn't working so I'll post this here. I am after drivers side front flare and rear door flare as well as whatever pins/clips are needed to fit them for a 2003 Jack. If any one has a wreck or parts they wish to part with, just send me a message thanks!

Admin feel free to move or remove this post as it's not actually a 4JX1 issue. 

Thanks!

BC.

Hello all, I'm after some info on my 4jx1, when I start my jackaroo in the morning and after work it blows quite a bit of blue smoke then it is fine for the rest of the day only does it after it's been sitting for quite awhile, could it be valve stem seals or glow plugs as it's a bit harder to start at times or could that be a battery problem , would you recommend to use a engine stop leak or anything like that, cheers! 

Hi,

What about a small meeting next Sunday, 7th, 11:00 at lane Cove Park?

Join if you don't have any other plans, hope it will be interesting to see everyone offline.

Note 1: there are BBQs and toilets there

Note 2: parks entry fees applied if you don't have annual parks pass.

Note 3: I'll be sometime earlier to book a spot in the park .Spot number will be posted, but there are no too much of them, easy to find

Cheers

Sergey